Many of the traditional style restaurant run by husband and wife have diminished over the years due to lifestyle changes by young Japanese chefs. That’s not to say such restaurants are not prospering, but they have diminished significantly.

The obvious advantages of these kinds of restaurants is the level of control and quality experience. The chef working in a small open environment has more control over his/her individual process and commonly in Japan, except for Izakaya most restaurants and chefs, have a singular focus., i.e., sushi, tempura, etc. If you would go to a restaurant serving multiple foods, different types of Japanese cuisine then you would probably find them in a hotel or in the typical Izakaya otherwise restaurants of this type are deeply concentrated on one food, under one roof.

Here it is Oden and many Japanese wouldn’t think of Oden as a spring cuisine but it is always delicious and is best when the weather is chilly, yet this kind of food is always marvellous, umami and the simmering soup and atmosphere.

Now Oito san; we have been going for 40 years and I recall in the 1980s it was so very complicated to make a reservation and it still is, mostly reserved for regular Japanese clients. I don’t know when but at a certain point in time Oito san opened the restaurant to non-introduced customers for lunch. This is the way of respecting the community and offering those a chance to taste a simple Oden lunch, and it is popular to sit at the small counter with simmering broth and multiple Japanese treasures cooking in

If you line up before midday you can have a chance to enter into this secretive Gion space but there is no guarantee you’ll find a seat. If you do go there make sure to make no photos, and no mobile phones, and maintain a low voice and definitely no perfume. It is true many Japanese chefs have a difficult time controlling foreigners and consequently do not welcome them given the risks.

However dinner at Oito isn’t open to everyone and it isn’t meant to snobbish, it is a restaurant well guarded by the owner who understands protecting clients privacy is key. This is the Kyoto way and many establishments rely on locals using it as their cantina.

These things have changed however, while an introduction is still required, the Michelin guide has solved many problems for tourists and Japanese. Those looking to have access to the best Japanese cuisine still struggle as the demand and supply is not in equilibrium. There are only a few places on planet earth where you can experience this kind of umami ecstasy, closely related but different to the Gion euphoria found here.