The Pepe wines have been a personal favorite of ours for many years, and they are as handmade as you can get, with the pressing by foot, outdoors as the juice purity is managed with a definite idea and understanding of how to extract the natural characteristics without too much undue influence.
I still remember meeting the maestro himself at the winery in 2017: https://mesubim.com/2017/12/20/emidio-pepe-abruzzo/
A handsome dashing well dressed iconic cap, immaculate Emidio just as his words are spoken, and its in his authenticity, philosophy a ways —minimal intervention, allowing Mother Nature to guide the process. We discussed racking, and Emidio described it in a way I have never forgotten: like removing layers—jacket, vest, tie, shirt—each step stripping away part of the wine’s character.I also recall the moment of punching the grapes with our feet—an almost timeless, tactile connection to the craft.
It was, quite simply, one of those unforgettable wine moments. These are wines that strike you with their originality from the very first sip, and manage to capture the pure essence of the terroir. They linger long after the glass is empty. You can taste the personality of the place, the craft, and the people behind it. Above all, they reflect the quiet philosophy of a family that has dedicated their lives to doing what they love.
Fast-forward to today in Tokyo, and the granddaughter of Pepe — Chiara — now stands at the helm. Profoundly intelligent and deeply rooted in her heritage, she carries forward the family’s solemn gratitude to their vineyards, their ancient cellars, and everything that makes their wines authentic. Together with her family, friends, and an unwavering passion, she continues to craft wines that speak of Abruzzo with soul and sincerity.
A fantastic tasting of nine wines on Sunday April 5—four whites and five reds—led by Chiara at her importer, Cellar Door, in Tokyo. I love the idea to keep it simple when asked about food pairings: “Trebbiano paired with raw fish and raw vegetables; Pecorino with cooked vegetables and cooked fish, and the reds, they are perfect for all foods, expressing elements of structure and elegance.”
Yet within such simplicity, Chiara’s depth of experience and clarity of explanation made the tasting deeply compelling—you find yourself completely absorbed, on the edge of your seat.
The whites are purely amazing — mineral-driven, with a beautiful balance of fruit and an extraordinary expression. The 2020, when it was first poured, immediately stood out with its dramatically different color compared to the others. The great surprise, however, was that the wine showed zero signs of oxidation, it had hues of yellow. That vintage simply expresses itself in a completely different way — distinct in character, yet absolutely marvelous.
The 1966 Branella vineyard reflects a thoughtful, almost meticulous approach to viticulture. The grapes are deliberately shaded to preserve quality and finesse in the tannins — a practice that feels both practical and surprisingly uncommon in today’s climate.
“Tactile” is the word that comes to mind here. It becomes a bridge between the wine and the ingredient itself — describing not only flavor, but texture, interaction, and pure sensation. Shoot management is equally vital: carefully controlling airflow to prevent spoilage. Simple in concept, yet critical in execution.
I was genuinely mesmerized by the shading of the grapes. In an era when climate change is altering everything, the idea of intentionally covering the crop with vine shoots (a leaf protection) to protect it from the very sun and heat that now threaten it feels both wise and quietly radical.
The 2022 vintage stands out: tannin, fruit, and minerality in harmony. A compressed growing season shaped its character—rain, cold, warmth, and vigorous vegetation from early rains, followed by approximately 40mm of rainfall per week from late July. Ripening was slower, with harvest at Casa Pepe and Branella taking place in early October.
It challenges the myth that great vintages require perfect, warm weather. Wine carries its own energy, its own tension. Ultimately, it is the winemaker who either allows that potential to unfold—or interferes with its process.
emidiopepe
@emidiopepe_agriturismo