I took this picture from a Tokyo Billboard a few days ago (while dreaming) and asked myself, what is the reason collectors find the 1655 so fascinating? Is it because there is no single “1970’s Explorer II” or is it the straight hands and or the “Big Arrow”, and or all of the above.
Given the first year of production for the Rolex Explorer II (Reference 1655) was 1971, also famously known as the “Steve McQueen” despite not having all that much to do with him. This Rolex is a highly specialized watch was designed specifically for cave explorers and polar adventurers to help them track AM/PM hours in deep darkness ~ pretty cool stuff. Nicknamed “Il Freccione” in Italian for “Big Arrow” due to its prominent, bright orange 24-hour hand.
Produced until 1985, this iconic vintage watch was designed specifically for explorers of caves who needed to tell day from night in complete darkness, and so at the time of its launch not many people purchased it to wear fashionably. In fact cave dwellers both professional and novice would dive into caves where day and night become one, so it was a tool for exploring: https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/mk1-straight-hand-1655-rolex-explorer-ii
No moving bezel and a fixed bezel every second hour in a day and in the dark, the dial is easy to read when illuminated. This is Rolex wholly unique and the symmetrical square and hands are streamline and the hands take center stage, where the modern watches are incomparable in so many ways ~ 55 years of nostalgia.
While Rolex is famously secretive about exact production figures, experts estimate that roughly 20,000 to 30,000 total examples of the Ref. 1655 were produced throughout its entire 15-year run, so low production in comparison.
The most valuable examples today are those with original parts, and mostly untouched, or corrupted. However, there is always the question of the “look” and many collectors would define original as the most important, while other collectors would say, the “look” is all about what you like, what you pay and what makes you happy.
The watch shown above is Mark Dial I, and a Mark I bezel, which is quite rare, and the dial and bezel are original with original straight hands. And for serious collectors, a completely original 1655 with a matching dial and bezel is often more important than cosmetic perfection. A watch with scratches but untouched original components is generally preferred over a polished example with replacement parts.
And what is very interesting is; over its production run Rolex introduced a series of dial variations, hands, bezels, and luminous materials:
https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-explorer-ii-adventure-watch-gmt-1655-16550-16570-216570-226570-in-depth/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6XZih7IhUY
Mark I Dial 1971-1972
- Known as the “Straight Hand” dial.
- The orange 24-hour hand is relatively thin and straight.
- Extremely desirable and among the rarest versions.
- Often found with early serial numbers.
- Collectors pay significant premiums for untouched examples.
Mark II Dial 1972-1974
- Rolex transitioned to the larger orange arrow hand.
- More legible and more closely associated with the iconic Explorer II appearance.
- Early matte black dial with creamy tritium lume.
Mark III Dial 1974-1977
- Slight typography changes.
- Different coronet and text spacing.
- Many examples have aged beautifully, developing warm ivory lume.
Mark IV Dial 1977-1979
- The most common late-1970s variation.
- Cleaner printing and subtle changes in the minute track.
- Often found in strong original condition.
Mark V Dial (early 1980s)
- Final evolution before discontinuation.
- Transitional piece leading toward the later Explorer II references.
- Still highly collectible but generally yet less rare than the earliest dials.