While I am no expert, and no newcomer to Burgundy and or tasting the fantastic wines of DRC, which I started drinking before most of my younger readers were in diapers. 🥴🥴🥴

Last winter, I was sitting in Beaune having a discussion in a well-known restaurant with a very capable local (Sommelier/owner) and we were talking about DRC and other Burgundian wines. He was openly critical, both to clients and with the wine maker about the use of sulfites, a hot topic in wine making. I too have more of an interest in more biodynamic wine makers and farming methods whereby the least amount of interference is needed: https://mesubim.com/2025/02/19/vignai-da-duline/ and while Vignaida Duline is in Italy, I always take the time to enjoy the wines of Ganevat, and many others: https://mesubim.com/2025/03/06/chalasses-vieilles-vignes-ganevat/

And after listening to what he had to say, I realize that it makes a lot of sense basically because sulfites are an insurance policy for wines and wine makers. They use them as described below throughout different phases, almost scrubbing the Wines so they have more control over them. It makes sense when you’re considering a bottle of DRC and price, they cannot afford clients to open a bottle and there’s some kind of off taste due to micro-bacterial growth.

The process of using sulfites in wine has been around for as far back as ancient Rome. Back in Roman times, winemakers would burn candles made of sulfur in their empty wine containers (called Amphora) to keep the wines from turning to vinegar. Sulfites, Sulfur Dioxide are added throughout winemaking primarily as an antioxidant and antimicrobial agent. Winemakers use them to prevent spoilage, stop unwanted fermentation, and preserve the wine’s freshness and color. The addition timeline is highly strategic to ensure the wine remains stable.

Wine nowadays ranges from about 5 mg/L (5 parts per million) to about 200 mg/L. The maximum legal limit in the United States is 350 mg/l. A well made dry red wine typically has about 50 mg/l sulfites.

Key Stages of Sulfite Addition: winemakers typically add it in controlled, incremental amounts at specific phases and some in Burgundy consider this phasing to be too much control over the outcome.

1. Crushing: Immediately after the grapes are picked and crushed, winemakers may add sulfites to protect the fresh juice from oxygen exposure and to halt any wild fermentation before the intended yeast is introduced. At the crushing phase, post-harvest, immediately after the grapes are picked and crushed, winemakers may add sulfites to protect the fresh juice from oxygen exposure and to halt any wild fermentation before the intended yeast is introduced.

2. During Fermentation: In some winemaking styles, a small amount is added during the primary fermentation phase to keep the environment clean and prevent spoilage bacteria from taking over. 

3. Post-Fermentation / Malolactic Fermentation (MLF): Once fermentation is complete, winemakers test the wine’s natural $$levels. If they want to prevent a secondary fermentation (Malolactic Fermentation, which turns sharp malic acid into creamy lactic acid), they will add sulfites to stop the bacteria. If MLF is desired, this addition is delayed until the process finishes. 

4. During Bulk Aging: Throughout the months the wine rests in barrels or tanks, small amounts are periodically added to replace what is lost to evaporation and chemical reactions, keeping the wine stable during maturation. 

5. Right Before Bottling: The bottling process inevitably introduces oxygen into the wine. A final, precise dose of sulfites is almost always added right before bottling to ensure the wine stays fresh while sitting on a store shelf or in a wine cellar

What can you say about DRC, except it is usually very characteristic of DRC and without specific details, it is likely up to 75mg/l, and for some that’s considered plenty of sulfites. But we know its not just the amount, it is a matter of when it is added. The sulfites are no doubt integral to most wines and help maintain the wines very structure; good fruit, nice balance, clean and still its youth to a certain degree.

The 2020 Richebourg was “still young” and we will need to see how it develops over the time, but for now it was pretty amazing with a depth and purity, a light smoke from the barrel and a long finish of Burgundian fruit.

(96 Points)