The gift of the oily belly of the tuna (named otoro) melts in your mouth as you watch it being cut with razor-sharp precision. The nikiri drips along the rice as it melds itself into a savoury umami flavour.

The fat between the flesh is butter soft, light-white and melts in your mouth. Yes the very people who serve us the worlds greatest fats discovered the French identified the so-called fatty acid transporter CD36, that we now blame for our love of high-fat foods. Scientists identified a protein receptor that sits on the taste buds and senses fat along with bitter, salty, sweet, sour and umami.