Eating each bite of the chicken reminded me of a friend in Greece who adores his farm and his chickens.
In the middle of Tokyo at Chanterelles a French restaurant is the owner-chef Yusuke Nakada’s who worked in France at a three star Michelin named Restaurant Regis et Jacques Marcon. Marcon’s primary focus is fungi, to the point that he has come to be known as the roi du champignons.
But the night of the d’Yquem tasting we were served the black chicken known as poulet fermiér noir, the pride of our region, the King of the fields. The black chicken of Challans is one of dishes not to be missed, and under the skin was black truffle and of course from France.
After cooking, it reveals a fine taste which is incomparable, under a very delicate and crusty skin. Specially selected from an old black origin from the Vendee, it is reared over 81 days to thoroughly develop its thighs and to strengthen its flesh.
Chef Nakada is a “shroom specialist” using more than half a dozen types, most of them imported from Europe: cepes, pied-bleus (blewits), ink-black trompettes de la mortand fresh, orange-gold chanterelles from France; girolles from France and generous garnishes of black truffle, to add their woodsy perfume.
The most incredible experience was the service of mushrooms with d’Yquem and that blew my mind. I couldn’t believe mushrooms are the perfect match for sauternes.
The 1954 was sublime with mushroom, the Ultimate and perfect match and the 1967 and the 1990, both were memorable. I cannot explain how mushrooms and d’Yquem works, and is it the umami, or it it texture and taste? Yes both, a magical moment.