No doubt Thorsten Schmidt is a very fine addition to the Copenhagen food scene, and hands down Barr was our best culinary experience in Copenhagen; service excellent and the atmosphere superb cottage chic. True the space is ex-Noma and still has the air of Redezepi’s Dinesen flooring, those unforgettable wide wooden boards.
The menu is to the point and has the pizzaze of Copenhagen, you see the freshness, no hiding the fact, or adding complications to a menu, over covering mother nature with too much milk. At Barr the che uses creamy substances in a good way and he respects the raw materials accenting what is important. I can easily say, this is a restaurant which has go the right ideas, and it is not only a good restaurant, it is delicious and to the point and no fluff.
What I liked is Thorsten captures the true essence of Copenhagen and offers local vegetables, and avoids using trick bugs, insects or too much fanfare. But at the same time waffles are a breakfast food and there is no getting around it, so I ordered the caviar without the waffles.
Our server Hege seemed edgy but she has zero edge, like many locals, there is no doubt Barr’s raw materials are excellent and the smoked cheese is a fantastic idea, and goes perfectly with the crudités. The cheese was perhaps too smoky but the vegetables were so garden fresh, and tasted so darn good, and after a few days of eating pretend vegetables or micro foraged nettles and sea buckhorn, I could finally taste crunchy asparagus; the cucumber added to the cheese and the peas in the pod were aromatic – bravo there is no other dish where you can judge vegetables as easily.
The caviar infinitely better than what Geranium served us and you can see it in the eggs, Barr’s eggs are plump and consistent in size, and the surface is evenly colored, while Geranium’s caviar was spotty and broken and dry. See below the two caviar, the first photo is Barr and the second Geranium. The Geranium caviar was pale, broken and tasteless and maybe that’s why they cover it in a creamy sauce. Either way a three star must be more cautious, it was just dried out and past its time, but what makes a three star is control, and here they lost it.
The brown crab was superb, it was 100% delicious and underneath yoghurt and green strawberries, an amazing and cleaver combination. This dish is simple yet shows how yoghurt’s fat and the strawberries bitterness works so well, it was very good and a delight to eat some fresh crab.
The schnitzel, it was amazing, sorry I sound over enthusiastic in comparison to Geranium it is incomparable, and this is only a one star. Frankly forget the stars and focus on the raw materials and the integrity and understanding of how a chef works. The schnitzel had a sauce with capers and anchovy, it worked so well together and the onions added balance,
And the tartar what can I say, it looked good and the peas and meat combination isn’t new but it works, so if it isn’t broken don’t change it.
The deserts were awesome and no doubt I had to try them although I missed two of the important deserts; pretzel and the choux, but next time.
I would go to Barr anytime because this chef gets it – bravo chef 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻