Edition Conclusion /Michelin**/ Desert

The desert, it was immense, simple and just right, a highlight even though we were full after so many courses. I watched the chef spoon the ice cream from his pack-jet container, I ask about stabilizers, “do you use any” and he replies “no”. The ice-cream looks so perfect, the taste of the pistachios caramelized below, the bite of a champion.

This evening was successful at least for us, the chef works hard to please his clients keeping in mind that at the end of the day, he’s amongst many very talented chefs in Japan. The Japanese have what it takes in a kitchen, a skilled chef can slice almost anything paper-thin and even the skin of a flounder with a knife: http://mesubim.com/2013/12/12/hirame-skinned-not-alive/

I tend to think that while Edition is an odd name, and somehow doesn’t fit a Michelin restaurant it works.

I hesitate to be overly critical, I know the labours of the kitchen and a chef is judged by his last performance.

There are however a few things I would say to the chef, if he is trying to give the experience greater depth and scope. Change the bread and increase the wine list.

I was told the chef likes acidity, and I am not sure where acidity comes into play. I found much of his food more on the sweet side, and less on the acid side.

Acidity is something I know very well, at least when it comes to wine. Some twenty-three years ago I refused a bottle of Henri Jayer’s 1978 vintage. The sommelier described it as “Bon Acidité” and it was! The wine was fine although the sommelier decided to substitute it with the 1985.

Unfortunately 1978 Burgundy isn’t nearly as luscious, or as fruit concentrated as the 1985. This was not a funny story at the time but I laugh about it now. The shouts of the chef throughout the restaurant, “American Coca-Cola whisky” were bombed aloud. I am not American by the way, and I don’t drink Whisky or coke I replied. That same day at lunch I found a creepy crawler in my salad, and announced it to the owner, who insisted it flew into the room and landed on my plate. I couldn’t help to point out that the insect had no wings.

Back to edition, the idea of Acidité in cuisine is something very real. I didn’t find Shimomura’s cuisine acid, as it was just the opposite. The use of sweetness was throughout the menu and I thought it needed some more flavour contrasts. The strawberries appeared a few too many times and while I like fruit, I tend to think fruit is more desert.

I am critical about the re-introduction of the “same ingredients” being served throughout the evening. I was once asked by Monsieur Freddy Giradet, “did you enjoy your menu” and I replied, “I apologize but I did find some courses repetitious”. Mr. Giradet is a gentlemen, he apologized and insisted the meal be complimentary.

Perhaps too many dots on the plates, a few too many times, but overall what impressed us most was the chef’s focus on healthy foods. Finding a substitution for fat, butter and full cream is marvellous and a theme we appreciate. The chef gets a star for trimming back the fat which he proves can be replaced and substituted without compromising the taste.

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