This is the best fusion I’ve tasted in a very long time. Chef Nieder from Germany has been the chef in charge since the Swiss Dolder Grand reopened in 2008. The Restaurant has been awarded 18 Gault Millau points and two Michelin stars and deserves both.
I am not a fusion fan because too often chefs misunderstand the notion of combing two foreign elements. In order to accomplish fusion a chef must have a complete competence in understanding the original uses of those raw materials he/she intends to fuse. Too often fusion turns into confusion, disorder and a misuse of tastes flavors and raw materials.
In this case I was very afraid that the chef went too far, so I decided to try north sea dived scallops marinated in the optimal combination, quince, wholemeal juice, ginger and shiso. Actually I couldn’t identify or find the individual tastes, but I did find a seed I thought was a dill.
The lighting in the dinning room is poor for photography and does not do any justice for this dish. The scallops are perfectly prepared, lightly poached with a fine sense of balance and a delicate contrast in taste, a wonderfully prepared dish.
What I like about this chef is his ability to use his tweezers and combine materials without distributing the very essence of the raw materials. If you look carefully he has added shiso leafs, some jelly, a some green dill oil and dill seeds that break perfectly on your palate.
The other dishes and amuse-bouche were all meticulously prepared, and his accuracy shows and pays off. The tastes are all so pure and refined through his acute understanding and kitchen experience. This chef deserves a more acute maître d’hôtel, a head person that’s in-charge of the dinning room in order to deliver the level of service Chef Nieder deserves.