The fire crackles between two large logs split in half, and its here is the perfect cottage styled setting comes together with the experience of local culture, wines, and the wooded forest.

Joško Sirk from La Subida, the first Slovenian to receive a Michelin Star. But for those travelling to this region for a first time be sure to carve out some time to see Brda across the border in Slovenia: https://www.colliobrdawelcome.com/en/category/partner-english/

The innkeepers are Josko Sirk and his wife Loredana, and Alessandro Gavagna, the husband of Josko’s daughter Tanja, his regionality creativity is local poetry and deserves its one Michelin star: https://the-slovenia.com/en/gastronomy/restaurant-awards/the-first-slovenian-michelin-star-across-the-border/ The onion dish reminded us of the the onion made by Cesare a Piedmontese chef we admired his style and passion: https://mesubim.com/2013/11/18/cesare-cesare-part-4/ and he passed away this past May and we miss him and his warm heart.

But that’s not all: father Joško makes vinegar: https://www.acetosirk.it/en.html according to the old Acetaia tradition, and son Mitja who is the definitive wine enthusiast makes wine. I have used their vinegar for almost 20 years and its amazing….and at the restaurant they make a vinegar ice cream as an inter-mezzo….quite refreshing: https://www.lasubida.it/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Ottobre-24-2.pdf

Mitja’s white wine he produces is fantastic and was (without sounding corny) the perfect match for the homemade foie and brioche toast, or the onion a kind of heavenly food that lingers on and on.

You can choose between the Osteria: https://www.lasubida.it/a-tavola/osteria-de-la-subida/ an alternative, Osteria della Subida serves traditional Friuli dishes and is open daily, including at lunchtime.

The Trattoria al Cacciatore: https://www.lasubida.it/en/trattoria-al-cacciatore-restaurant/ is one star but both focus on kilometre zero respecting the values of those local recipes and regional ingredients bordering with Slovenia.

We have tried both and while they are very different atmospheres, the Trattoria is one star grande however, the food isn’t pretentious and you can enjoy the regional hand cut cured ham at the trattoria. This is a speciality they are proud to support and connection between the locals from Cormons is in part what makes the region shine: https://www.dosvaldo.it/en/ This isn’t the type of thinly cut prosciutto you’ll find in San Daniele, yet savoury.

The veal shank cooked in the bread oven, Lo stinco di vitello arrosto nel vecchio forno del pane e’ il nostro piatto forte. veniamo a servirvelo a tavola con le patate in tecia. The Veal Shin, roasted in the old oven for bread. A product of winter, seasoned in the traditional way, slightly smoked this dish is a signature of the restaurant’s authentic fall cuisine.

There is the kind of deliberate “frozen in time” sensibility which permeates La Subida, and its about their old fashioned and traditional ways. For those who appreciate tradition and nature, its the Sirk family values, a well defined attitude, caretakers of their heritage. It takes a few days to see the area and get to know what drives the locals. They respect their work, the clients and their place is magical and unto itself unique, modest and true to their values.

Congratulations to La Subida and their tradition, integrity, modesty and dedication to their trade – it is rare to find these kinds of institutions in the world we live in, where bad food and perfume have taken over!