Perigord Truffles Egg Onsen 63°C

The key to cooking egg and truffles is a water bath and that’s the most consistent. I set my temperature at 64°C, but I recommend less. I would cook the egg at 62.5°C for a more creamy yolk. My yolk was slightly over cooked and the whites were perfect and runny. You have to deal with the fact that the proteins in the white and yolks cooked differently.

I used some mace at the bottom with a minuscule amount of olive oil. Perhaps creme would be better to match the richness of flavour.

Black truffles are very aromatic when the freshness and quality is there. I understand that some readers prefer white, however white are not comparable. Yes white are more aromatic in their own right but never underestimate the versatility of black.

When I think of black truffles, I think of classical cuisine at Louis XV Monaco where I used to go 20 years ago when it was at the height of Alain Ducasse. But the source for Perigord truffles is Hôtel Restaurant in Mondragon France. His black truffles are served cold, or prepared brouillés aux truffes and are among the finest on planet earth – trust me.

You can find truffles placed under the skin of a Poulet de Bresse, or used in sauces in classic French cuisine, or macerated, or marinated with numerous raw materials and the most obvious served raw.

Black truffles are excellent and compliment much more other foods than you think. You cannot shave white over pasta and walk away saying, great pasta, you mean to say, “great truffles”.

The fact of the matter is, white dominates almost every food it comes in contact with unless you dilute it. While black compliments almost all recipes in a more balanced way, you can heat it up, tame it, add it to a sauce, or peel away the skin of a chicken and place it underneath. That’s the real difference but that’s not to say you should be more impressed with black, you should consider the diversity.

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So if you are not a cook and just a hedonist, enjoy white, but never underestimate the powerful aromas of black as they are just as impressive. If you don’t believe me take a trip in February and visit La Beaugravière. The owner and his black truffles belong to the culture of the Perigord, a region best known for foie gras, armagnac and the rich wines of Cahors.